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A Taste of Olive Oil

April 2009:

MEDITERRANEAN TOMATO SALAD

The basic combination of olives and tomatoes crops up in salads all round the eastern Mediterranean. This one comes from Cyprus where the extra virgin olive oils are beginning to rise from a rustic tradition to match the best of the region. This Cypriot chef told me that his compatriots could not go to bed without having enjoyed it sometime during the day!

Ingredients:
4 large beef tomatoes, sliced
a handful of black olives, Kalamata are particularly good
plenty of freshly chopped coriander
salt and freshly ground black pepper
A good quality Cypriot or Greek extra virgin olive oil

Method:
Arrange the tomatoes on a large plate and sprinkle with olives and coriander. Season to taste and smother with olive oil. Serve with plenty of crusty bread to mop up the oil.


GRILLED CHICKEN BREAST WITH FRESH CORN AND ROCKET SALAD

This Californian classic uses fresh sweetcorn so you will need to use the youngest and sweetest ears that you can find. It comes from the Consorzio kitchen and uses a fairly mild oil but there is no reason why you should not use any of the wonderful range of Californian oil now available.

Ingredients:
4 chicken breasts, skinned and cut into large chunks
salt and freshly ground black pepper
Californian extra virgin olive oil
Salad:
2 cups fresh corn kernels (about three ears)
3 cups rocket
a little freshly chopped parsley, chervil or oregano
1 shallot, finely chopped
juice of 1 orange
juice of 1 lemon
mixed salad leaves

Method:
Season the chicken pieces. Brush with oil and grill until cooked through
Mix together all the salad ingredients and season to taste. Pile onto four serving plates. Top with the grilled chicken and drizzle with the extra virgin olive oil.


LANGUEDOC MONKFISH SOUP

Fish soups are two a penny along the Mediterranean coast of France. Some like Bouillabaisse are almost impossible to make away from the Mediterrameam shores because they call for the little rock fish called Rascasse which abound in that area.

Bourride, however, is much simpler to make. In Provence it is made with a variety of white fish but this recipe from Sete in Languedoc uses only monkfish. Picholine is one of the best olive varieties in this region for olive oil and that from the co-operative at L’Oulibou is excellent.

Ingredients:
2 tablespoons Picholine olive oil
2 large leeks, cleaned and sliced
1 onion, peeled and sliced
125g Swiss Chard, torn into pieces
700g monkfish, cut into 8 thin steaks
300ml white wine
salt and pepper
4 cloves garlic, peeled
3 egg yolks
300ml olive oil

Method:
Heat the olive oil in a frying pan and add vegetables. Saute very gently over a low heat for 5 minutes. Evaporate off the liquid before adding the monkfish and wine. Increase heat and add 300ml water to cover the fish. Season and bring to the boil. Cook over a medium heat for 3-5 minutes until the fish is cooked.

Meanwhile crush the garlic. Mix in the egg yolks and beat in the olive oil a very little at a time. Add a little cooking liquid from time to time. When all the oil is incorporated add sufficient cooking liquid to give a pouring consistency.

Remove fish and vegetables from the pan. Beat the garlic mayonnaise into the cooking liquid. Stir over a low heat until sauce thickens. Take care it does not separate. Pour over fish and serve at once.

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