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A Taste of Olive Oil

January 2009:

ARTICHOKES VENETIAN STYLE

The best artichokes to use for this dish are the small dark violet-leaved variety and the best olive oil is from the eastern side of nearby Lake Garda. It does bear a strong resemblance to that given by Elizabeth David in her Italian cookery book so I would like to acknowledge her input.

Ingredients:
8-12 small artichokes
Lake Garda extra virgin olive oil
White wine
Water

Method:
Cut away the outside leaves and pack the artichokes into a braising pan. Measure equal parts of olive oil, white wine and water and pour over the artichokes. Bring to the boil, cover and reduce the heat to simmer the vegetables for about an hour. Remove the lid and turn up the heat and let the liquid reduce until only the oil is left.


SARDINES WRAPPED IN VINE LEAVES WITH PESTO SAUCE

This simple dish makes great finger food for a party or you could serve it as part of a Greek mese. I enjoyed it with really fresh Greek Artisans extra virgin olive oil at the Kerasma conference in Athens in November last year where it was demonstrated by leading Greek chef Christoforos Peskias of Dakos restaurant. This chef used dried wasabi powder which is much milder than the green paste which is served in Japanese restaurants. If you only have the latter use very sparingly.

Ingredients
Small sardines, with the fins and backbone removed to make flat fillets
Vine leaves
Salt
Pesto Sauce
Handful of pimento stuffed green olives
Plenty of fresh coriander
Handful of pinenuts
Two whole cloves of garlic, peeled
1-2 spoonfuls wasabi powder

Method
Place each sardine flat on a vine leaf and sprinkle with salt. Roll up, tucking in the bits of leaf in the centre. Heat some of the oil in a frying pan and add the rolled stuffed vineleaves. Fry on both sides in hot oil. The vine leaves will go interestingly crispy and the sardine will cook through in the centre. This take about 2-3 minutes depending on the size of the fish.
To make the Pesto sauce, place all the ingredients in a blender and whiz for a short while. Christoforos Peskias prefers a slightly chunky effect rather than a smooth pesto. Serve with the hot sardines.


ROAST QUAIL IN THE NICE STYLE

Farmed quail is available almost everywhere these days and it a quite delicious cooked in this way. Use a delicate oil like Alziari which is pressed from the Nice or Caillettier olive.

Ingredients:
8 quail, cleaned and wiped over
36 black olives
16 juniper berries
4 sprigs of fresh thyme
Extra Virgin olive oil

Method:
Place 3 olives, a juniper berry and sprig of thyme inside each quail and truss.
Heat the oil in a large pot roasting casserole and fry the birds over a high heat until golden. Add the remaining olives and juniper berries to the pan.
Reduce the heat and cover with a lid. Pot roast on top of the stove or in the oven 190C/375F/Gas 5 for 40-45 minutes.

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