CREAMY SALT COD PATE

This recipe for salt cod comes from Nimes in the south of France which seems an odd place for salt cod to be found but in the Middle Ages it was staple food. Every cook in the region has their own recipe but I particularly like the creaminess of this version made with single cream. Choose a extra virgin Picholine olive oil from the region and add your own extra flavourings for a change.

Ingredients:
350g salt cod
1 onion, peeled and sliced
1 bay leaf
1 bouquet garni
150ml extra virgin olive oil
100ml single cream
freshly ground black pepper
Optional extras:
2 cloves garlic, crushed
2 tablespoons finely chopped parsley
pinch of dried thyme
a dash of lemon juice

Method:
Start the day before by covering the fish with cold water. Change the water at intervals throughout the day. After 24 hours drain and place in fresh cold water with the onion, bay leaf and bouquet garni. Bring to the boil and as soon as the water begins to bubble remove the fish. Leave to cool for five minutes and then remove all the skin and bone. Pound with a wooden spoon to break up the flesh and place in a blender with a tablespoon of olive oil. Stop and start the blender, gradually adding the rest of the oil. After half has been added alternate with the cream. Season at the end. If you are using one of the flavourings put it into the blender about half way through the process. Serve with squares of toast.

ROAST PICADON WITH OLIVES

This is another speciality from the south of France this time using the delicious little drum-like Picadon goat’s cheeses. Choose an extra virgin olive oil from the Vallee des Baux or failing that any French olive oil. The small black table olives from the Cailletier olive are often known as Nice olives.

Ingredients:
4 small round goat’s cheeses about 2in in diameter
8 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil
2 teaspoons balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons raisins soaked in 2 more tablespoons of balsamic vinegar
2 tablespoons toasted pine nuts
handful small black Cailletier table olives
freshly ground black pepper
Garnish:
Handful of lamb’s lettuce
Sprigs of fresh thyme

Method:
Set the oven to 200C/Gas 6. Cut any mould off the crusts of the cheese and place on a foil lined baking tray. Brush with a little olive oil and cook for three minutes. Baste with more oil and cook for a further 2-3 minutes until it begins to bubble. Meanwhile gently heat the rest of the oil with the balsamic vinegar and raisins in a pan over a low heat. Arrange the lamb’s lettuce on four plates and place a cooked cheese on each one. Sprinkle with pine nuts and olives and then with the raisin mixture. Garnish with thyme and serve at once.

FRENCH OLIVE BREAD

Here is a good local bread to serve with the other two recipes this month. Its simple to make and disappears as fast as it is made. Use La Tanche black olives from Nyons in Provence. If these are not available black Kalamata olives from Greece are the best choice.

Ingredients:
Makes 2 large loaves
2 x 7g sachets Easy Bake yeast
900g strong white flour
1 teaspoon salt
500ml tepid water
2 tablespoons Nyons olive oil
400g black olives, stoned and chopped

Method:
Mix the yeast, flour and salt. Make a well in the centre and stir in the water and olive oil. Mix to a stiffish dough. Knead on a floured surface for 10 minutes. Leave to rise in a greased mixing bowl covered with cling film. Knock back the dough, roll out and spread with olives. Roll up and cut fairly deep diagonal slashes across the top of each loaf with a knife. Cover and leave to rise again for about half an hour. Brush with water and bake at 230C/Gas 8 for 30-35 minutes until the loaf is well browned and the base sounds hollow when rapped with the knuckles.