
July 2009:
SOLE WITH CAPERS AND BALSAMIC VINEGAR
Sometimes the simplest of dishes are the most effective. I encountered this wonderful combination in a restaurant on the Mediterranean coast of Italy not far from Pisa. It is important to use really good quality capers, the best balsamic vinegar you can afford - certainly with no ingredients but concentrated grape must and age wine vinegar, preferably listed in that order on the list of ingredients and an oil which is not too peppery.
Ingredients
2 large Dover soles, skinned, boned and cut into 8 fillets
bay leaf
small onion, peeled and chopped
salt and pepper
2 large tablespoons capers
100ml extra virgin olive oil such as Seggiano from Tuscany
1-2 teaspoons first class balsamic vinegar
Method
Boil up the heads and bones of the fish with water, a bay leaf and a little chopped onion to make a fish stock.
Season the fish fillets and fold into “neckties”. Stuff with some capers in each necktie and place in an ovenproof dish. Add a little fish stock. Cover with kitchen foil and bake for about 10-15 minutes at 180 degrees. Take care not to overcook.
Warm the oil in a pan. Strain the stock from the fish and keep for future use.
Place two neckties on each warm plate. Pour on the warm oil and sprinkle with the balsamic vinegar. Serve at once.
SPANISH STEWED PEPPERS
The long slow cooking method for this Spanish tapas dish ensures an amazing depth of flavour. Chose a well flavoured Andalucian oil such as Castillo de Canena Picual or Castello de Tabernas Picual. Serve as part of a tapas mix or on a cold buffet with Spanish chorizo sausages and Iberico ham. It is also good with a barbecue mixed grill.
Ingredients
1 red pepper
1 green pepper
1 yellow or orange pepper
100g sugar
pinch of salt
100ml Andalucian extra virgin olive oil
sprig of fresh thyme
Method
Wash the peppers and blanch in boiling water or char over an open flame so that they can be easily peeled. Remove the seeds and cut into strips.
Place in a pan with the sugar, salt, oil and thyme. Cover the pan and place over a low heat. Cook for about two hours, making sure that the peppers do no burn. Remove from the heat and leave to cool.
FEUILLETTE DE COLLIOURE
This egg and anchovy tart is a rather more sophisticated version of the French Pissaliadiere. Collioure is known for its canned anchovies and this local tart can be found in most patisseries in the area.
Ingredients
I kg firm tomatoes
4 tablespoons good French olive oil such as Castelas from the Vallee des Baux
salt and freshly ground black pepper
450g puff or flaky pastry
4 hardboiled eggs, shelled and sliced
24 anchovies in oil, drained
50g black french olives
Method
Slice two or three of the tomatoes and keep on one side. Chop the rest and place in a pan with the olive oil and seasonings. Simmer over a medium heat for 15-20 minutes, stirring from time to time, until they form a puree. Leave to cool.
Roll out the pastry and use to line a 10in loose based flan tin. Bake blind with dry beans on foil for 10 minutes.
Remove the foil and beans and spread the tomato puree all over the base of the flan. Cover with the sliced hard boiled eggs, tomato slices and anchovies in that order. Dot with olives and bake at 190 degrees for 20 minutes. Serve warm, but not hot, or cold.
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