
Greece
January 2009
There were mixed message coming out of Greece when I was there at the end of 2008 for the Kerasma Conference in Athens on traditional Greek gourmet food. On the whole the quality was expected to be better this year than last year as 2007 was a difficult one. However, some areas were affected by ice during the winter months. There was a very cold air flow that came from Siberia through the Aegian and the south Peleponese which could have affected the trees. There were also some pockets of olive fly infestation in some villages. Then it was very dry in September and October with no rain at all and this might also have caused some problems.
It is still a little early to assess the full impact of events during the year but it does look as if a reasonably good level of quality has been achieved and that the expected 15-20% increase on last year will be fulfilled. However, buyers need to beware as I am told that there is still a good deal of last year’s oil hanging around
Because of this and because of the increased production there will be a lot of oil around. This is also true for Spain and so the expectation is for low international prices for olive oil maybe as low as 2.5 euros. Much less than this and it will not he viable for Greek farmers to continue. Because of the low levels of mechanisation production costs in Greece are high.
Any reduction in the number of olive farmers has all kinds of implications, not only for nearby farmers with increasing chance of olive fly problems and fire, but also socially as more people leave the land for the cities. It could also affect the move to a more modern approach to marketing and selling olive oil which I was just beginning to see.
Traditionally very little of the 350,000 tones of annual production is sold or exported in bottles. It is mainly sold in large cans or exported in bulk to Italy. At the Kerasma exhibition there were signs that some companies are beginning to get off their back sides and move into the modern world. New factories with the most up-to-date processing equipment, quality standards assessments and full traceability for each bottle of olive oil are no longer so unusual. One company has even instituted a complete carbon footprint assessment and signed up to reduce emissions year by year.
It is not just the larger companies who seem to be moving forward. Some small producers are having a go at modernising their packaging and marketing methods and there are more blenders, packers and marketeers coming into the market with new ideas. Despite the dominance of the Koroneiki olive new varietal oils are appearing pressed from varieties such as Manaki, Athinolia, Hondroelia and Ladolia. One company is marketing special blends for particular types of food.
DOP oils are also beginning to appear in larger numbers with producers offering a DOP oil alongside their regular oils. Chalkidike is the latest on the list to achieve DOP status shortly. Organic oils too seem to be on the increase.
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